Powder Surfing

The sunlight is slowly but surely creeping over the eastern heights, the coastal ridge-tops, sparkling as it refracts the thin lipped wave rifling down the razor reef. Are these waves machine-generated? Morning, noon and evening they form continuously on any hint of properly angled swell and have so much to offer. There is a paradise if you can close your eyes and forget the cars back on the  highway, the rush of the city, the plastic and Styrofoam washed to shore and the Mc-Mansions fronting. It may be that there is none of that. Maybe it is just beach, dunes, your campsite, the critters…  Just focus on the surf, it is unreal.

Every morning walk the beach check it as the sun rises, watching the tide, angle, wind. Get it on before it is gone. But get it when it is best. That is how it is done. Always eat and rest well for an afternoon and maybe into sunset session. Watch the sun go down from the water, paddling into the beach in dimming light, maybe in the dark. Enjoy the crack of a beer bottle being opened, handed to you. The crackling of the fire as friends add fuel. This day coming to an end until the next one begins.